Choosing Your First Handgun

The gun counter has forty handguns in the case. The guy behind it is asking what you want. You're not sure yet—that's why you're here.

Why it matters: Your first handgun needs to do three things: fit your hand, go bang every time, and not punish you for practicing. Everything else is negotiable. The internet will tell you that you need a $1,200 race gun or some compact 9mm that's "perfect for everyone." You don't, and it isn't.

What You're Actually Choosing

The big picture: You need to pick a caliber, an action type, and a size. Those three decisions narrow your options from hundreds to maybe five or six guns worth handling.

Caliber first—get a 9mm. Not a .45 ACP because your uncle carried one in Desert Storm. Not a .380 because someone told you it kicks less. Not a .40 S&W because those were popular in 2003.

Here's the reality: 9mm is cheaper to shoot, holds more rounds, has less recoil than the bigger calibers, and stops threats just fine. You'll practice more because ammunition costs half what .45 costs. Outdoor Life's testing confirms what most instructors already know—beginners shoot 9mm better because they're not flinching.

Action type second—striker-fired pistol. Not a 1911 with a single-action trigger and a grip safety and a thumb safety and an 80-degree learning curve. Not a double-action/single-action with a 12-pound first trigger pull and a 4-pound second pull.

A striker-fired gun has the same trigger pull every time, no external hammer to snag, and typically one safety lever (or none). Glock popularized this design in the 1980s. Now everyone makes them.

Size third—depends on your mission. A full-size gun (like a Glock 17 or Sig P320) is easier to shoot accurately, holds more ammunition, and has less felt recoil. A compact (Glock 19-sized) does all that reasonably well and conceals better. A subcompact (Glock 43X, Sig P365) hides easily but snaps harder and gives you less to hold onto.

Your first gun should probably be full-size or compact. You can always buy a smaller one later.

The Short List

Between the lines: These handguns show up in every "best first handgun" article because they actually work—not because they're sexy or featured in movies.

Glock 19—the Toyota Camry of handguns. Boring, reliable, parts and holsters everywhere, and it fits most people's hands well enough. Holds 15 rounds. Used by half the police departments in America. The grip texture feels like skateboard tape, but the trigger is predictable. Every instructor knows how to teach on a Glock. If you decide guns aren't for you, you'll get most of your money back selling it. Pew Pew Tactical rates this as their top beginner choice for exactly these reasons.

Sig Sauer P320—modular excellence. The Army picked a version of this as the M17. Modular design means you can swap the frame size and grip later without buying a whole new gun. Smoother trigger than a Glock out of the box, slightly better ergonomics for smaller hands. Costs more but completely reliable and supported everywhere.

Smith & Wesson M&P 9 M2.0—underrated value. Similar to the Glock in almost every way but with better ergonomics and a better trigger. Comes with four different backstraps so you can adjust grip size. Costs less than a Glock, which makes no sense, but here we are.

CZ P-10 C—best trigger of the bunch. CZ has been making guns since 1936 and they know what they're doing. The grip angle works well for people who've shot 1911s. Slightly less common than the others, but any decent gun shop will have holsters and parts.

Those four cover 80% of what a new shooter should consider. You could look at the Walther PDP or Springfield XD-M, but you're splitting hairs at that point.

Actually Holding the Thing

What this means for you: Go to a gun shop. Handle all of them. The right handgun is the one that feels right in your hand, not the one some guy on YouTube says is "objectively superior."

Key fit checks:

• Grip size: Your trigger finger should reach the trigger without stretching. The web of your hand should sit high on the backstrap
• Control reach: You should hit the magazine release and slide stop without shifting your grip
• Trigger contact: Your finger should contact the trigger between the pad and first joint—not the joint or fingertip
• Sight alignment: You should see the front sight clearly without craning your neck
• Weight reality: A loaded Glock 19 is about 30 ounces. If it feels heavy in the shop, it'll feel worse after 100 rounds

Rent Before You Buy

Why it matters: Most ranges rent handguns. Twenty bucks plus ammunition gets you a half-hour with a gun you're considering. This is the cheapest mistake insurance you can buy.

Rent the Glock 19, shoot 50 rounds. Then rent the Sig P320 or M&P and shoot 50 rounds. You'll know pretty quickly which one you prefer—your hands will tell you things the internet can't.

Red flags to watch for:

• Slide bite: The slide cuts your hand during recoil
• Mag dump: Magazine release hits your palm and drops the magazine
• Low-left hits: Usually means the grip is too big for right-handed shooters
• Flinch development: Getting worse, not better, after 30 rounds

If you're experiencing any of these, try a different gun. Don't convince yourself you'll "get used to it."

New vs. Used

The bottom line: Buy new for your first handgun. Yes, used Glocks are everywhere for $100 less. But you don't yet know how to inspect a used gun for problems or identify someone's botched trigger job from YouTube University.

New guns come with a warranty, manual, and test-fired cases proving they work. After you've owned a gun for a year and shot a few thousand rounds, buy used all you want.

What Comes With It

What this means for you: You need more than the handgun. Budget for these essentials:

Must-have additions:

• Ammunition: 500 rounds practice FMJ ($150-200) and 50 rounds defensive hollow-points ($40-60)
• Protection: Electronic ear muffs ($50-80) and safety glasses ($10)—non-negotiable
• Transport: Hard plastic case ($20-30) for legal, safe transport
• Training: Basic handgun course ($75-200)—teaches you more in four hours than six months alone

Gun University recommends establishing a practice baseline before you carry, which means burning through several hundred rounds.

What Not to Buy First

Between the lines: These are excellent guns that make terrible first guns.

Avoid these rookie mistakes:

• Subcompact 9mms: Sig P365 and Glock 43X are great carry guns, terrible learning guns—short sight radius, snappier recoil, less grip
• 1911s in .45 ACP: Beautiful guns with thumb safeties, grip safeties, 8-round capacity, and expensive ammunition—learn the basics first
• Revolvers: Despite grandpa's advice, they hold 5-6 rounds, reload slowly, and have heavy trigger pulls
• .22 LR as your only gun: Cheap to shoot but won't teach recoil management and inadequate for defense

After You Buy It

Take it to the range within a week. Shoot 100 rounds minimum—you should keep all shots on a paper plate at 7 yards by session's end. If you can't, something's wrong with your fundamentals or the gun.

Building competence:

• Clean it after every trip for the first few months—teaches you how it works
• Read the actual manual—learn field-stripping, recommended ammunition, and every control
• Dry-fire at home—ten minutes three times weekly builds more skill than monthly range trips
• Watch local matches—find IDPA or USPSA clubs and see how people actually use handguns under pressure

The bottom line: Your first handgun is a learning tool. It teaches you what you like, what you don't, and what you need from a defensive firearm. A Glock 19, Sig P320, or M&P 9 will do all of that without letting you down.

Now go handle some guns and figure out which one fits.

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See Also

• The Four Rules of Firearm Safety
• Understanding Ammunition Basics
• Essential Gear for Range Days
• Dry Fire Practice Fundamentals

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Read the original article in The Handbook | By Steve Duskett

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